Hello, My Name is Ice Cream by Dana Cree
April 1, 2017 by Jenny
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Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream: The
Art and Science of the Scoop by Dana Cree shares more than
100 recipes for ice cream flavors and revolutionary mix-ins from
the two time James Beard-nominated pastry chef.This title explains not only how to make amazing ice cream, but also the science behind the recipes so we can understand ice cream like we spent our life devoted to the treat (studying it, not eating it – that’s a whole different kind of devotion). Cree has written one of the best ice cream books I’ve come across because it is not only a book of recipes it is a compliation of her years of experience from working at places like Noma, the Fat Duck and Alinea. Currently, Cree is settled in Chicago weaving her pastry magic as executive pastry chef at Publican’s brands.
The first portion of Hello is devoted to what Cree has defined as
“The Knowledge” which breaks down the science behind each component
of creating ice cream. Just as a true bread baker uses percentages,
the author has written her recipes in the same manner. With this
information, we will be churning out treats this summer like a pro
with fun flavors such as Burnt Honey, Bourbon Butterscotch,
Cinnamon Basil and Donut! Sherbets, Frozen Yogurt, add-ins and
composed scoops are also included. This is the definitive book
on ice cream – bravo to Dana Cree.
Special thanks to Clarkson Potter and the author for sharing
the recipe for Donut Ice Cream with our readers. Be sure to head
over to our contest page to enter our giveaway for
this fun, informative and beautiful book. Dana has a number of events
scheduled to celebrate ice cream!
Donut Ice Cream
Makes between 1 and 1 ½ quarts ice cream
Baked goods do something peculiar when boiled with milk: they
dissolve and become stretchy and elastic. Throw the mixture into a
blender, and this strange concoction becomes velvety and thick,
like pudding. I first encountered this magic trick at a restaurant
full of them, called Alinea. There, a pudding made by boiling
brioche and cream was served with raspberries for an elegant
“toast-and-jam” bite. Since then, I’ve applied the same principle
to just about every other kind of bakery treat I can get my hands
on-like gingerbread or devil’s food cake. Most recently, I’ve been
reducing glazed donuts to a velvety pudding to flavor ice
cream.
Buy the most delicious glazed donut you can find. This might
be from a local shop where donuts are hand-forged, or from Krispy
Kreme, or even from your grocery store’s bakery case. And don’t
stop at donuts; you can use this recipe with any cake, cookie, or
pastry you desire.
Cream (38%)
380g | 2 cups
Milk (37%)
370g | 1¾ cups
Sugar (15%)
150g | ¾ cup
Glucose (5%)
50g | ¼ cup
Glazed donut (5%)
50g | 2 ounces (about ½ large donut or 1 small)
Vanilla extract
3g | ½ teaspoon
Kosher or sea salt
2g | ⅓ teaspoon
Texture agent of your choice
(see below)
TEXTURE AGENTS
1 Best texture
Commercial stabilizer
3g | 1 teaspoon mixed with the sugar before it is added to the
ice cream base.
2 Least icy
Guar or xanthan gum
1g | 1/4 teaspoon whirled in a blender with the ice cream base
after it is chilled in the ice bath.
3 Easiest to use
Tapioca starch
5g | 2 teaspoons mixed with 20g | 2 tablespoons of cold milk,
whisked into the ice cream base after it is finished cooking.
4 Most accessible
Cornstarch
10g | 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon, mixed with 20g | 2
tablespoons of cold milk, whisked into the simmering ice cream
base, then cooked for 1 minute.
Boil the dairy. Place the cream, milk, sugar (1), and glucose
in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat and cook,
whisking occasionally to discourage the milk from scorching, until
it comes to a full rolling boil.
Cook the donut. Add the donut to the dairy, breaking it up
with a whisk while you stir it in. Reduce the heat and cook at a
low simmer for 2 minutes (4), whisking occasionally to help break
up the donut.
Blend the base. Remove the pot from heat and carefully
transfer the hot base to a blender. Add the vanilla and salt, and
start blending on low speed at first, increasing gradually to full
speed, to avoid the hot liquid jumping out the top. When the
blender is on high, continue blending for 1 to 2 minutes, until
very smooth (3).
Chill. Immediately pour the base into a shallow metal or glass
bowl. Working quickly, fill a large bowl two-thirds of the way with
very icy ice water. Nest the hot bowl into this ice bath, stirring
occasionally until it cools down (2).
Strain. When the ice cream base is cool to the touch (50°F or
below), strain it through a fine-mesh sieve. (This step is
optional, but will help ensure the smoothest ice cream
possible.)
Cure. Transfer the ice cream base to the refrigerator to cure for 4 hours, or preferably overnight. (This step is also optional, but the texture will be much improved with it.)
Churn. Place the base into the bowl of an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The ice cream is ready when it thickens into the texture of soft-serve ice cream and holds its shape, typically 20 to 30 minutes.
Harden. To freeze your ice cream in the American hard-pack
style, immediately transfer it to a container with an airtight lid.
Press plastic wrap directly on the surface of the ice cream to
prevent ice crystals from forming, cover, and store it in your
freezer until it hardens completely, between 4 and 12 hours. Or,
feel free to enjoy your ice cream immediately; the texture will be
similar to soft-serve.
Add this recipe to your Bookshelf (click the blue +Bookshelf button)
Recipe with permission of Clarkson Potter and Dana Cree. Photograph by Andrea D’Agosto and illustrations by Anna Posey.
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