Sugar, spice, and even more spice

Most of the time it seems the sweet and savory sides of the kitchen have a nearly impenetrable wall between them. Baking has its own niche with tools, ingredients, and flavorings that seldom are seen in the world of cooking, and vice-versa. There is some overlap in the use of spices such as cinnamon and cardamom, but more and more you see chefs nicking ideas and flavors from one side of the wall to the other. Epicurious hones in on this trend, showing how spices usually relegated to the cooking side of the kitchen are finding a new home on the baking side.

Part of this trend is driven by consumers (especially in the U.S.), who have grown weary of tooth-achingly sweet goodies. A few years ago only a few bakers were sprinkling fleur de sel on their cookies, and now even chain grocery store bakeries are doing it. You’ll find more exotic takes on this trend in high-end shops, where experiments lead to ancho chile powder in brownies and black pepper adorning financiers. Pastry chefs aren’t grabbing spices at random, however. Briana Holt, head baker at Tandem Coffee + Bakery in Portland, Maine, says “it’s not a conscious thing. I often come to a recipe from a backwards way, trying to achieve a certain vibe or feeling, rather than deciding I need to use a specific spice first.”

She cites using Chinese five-spice instead of pumpkin pie spice as an example of a shift in thinking about dessert. The same vibe of warming, fall spices are in both blends, but the Chinese five-spice adds a new dimension to the flavor. Pastry chefs agree that borrowing from the savory side of the kitchen is something that home bakers should try. Sasha Piligian (formerly of Nashville’s Lou and L.A. Squirl) recommends starting with a familiar recipe that already has many variations, like shortbread cookies. “Start with something you know you love and try adding one savory element, like a spiced sugar mixture,” she suggests. “Start small and work your way up to the flavor you want; you can always add more, but you can’t take the spice away!”

Photo of Ancho brownie sundae from Food Network Magazine