Vegetables make a foray into dessert
May 5, 2014 by DarcieFirst salads made inroads into breakfast; now vegetables take aim at dessert. This trend stretches far beyond carrot cake, pumpkin pie, or the occasional hot pepper in a custard: according to Huffpost Taste, chefs are increasingly making desserts using savory vegetables like beets and mushrooms.
Some of the choices are logical extensions of familiar flavor profiles. Fennel’s licorice flavors shine in strawberry-fennel chiffon with black garlic ice cream and fennel-oil jam at San Francisco’s Central Kitchen. Winter squash, a close relative of pumpkin, is a key ingredient in James Beard Award-nominated chef Jonathon Sawyer’s Opera Torte, served at Cleveland’s Greenhouse Tavern. Other vegetable choices are less conventional: Kory Stewart of San Francisco’s Hotel Vitale serves candy-cap mushroom ice-cream sandwiches (candy-cap mushroom gelato surrounded by butterscotch-pecan cookies, served with brown-sugar caramel). And three-time James Beard Award nominee Chef Luciano Del Signore is serving golden beet and tomato-water sorbets at Detroit’s Bacco Ristorante.
Not every chef is enamored with this trend. “I’m honestly tired of all this sesame-seed ice cream and shiso jelly,” says Chef Anthony Salguero of Oakland’s Bistro Michel. “I’ve done that. I’ve done the foams. It’s fun, but I think some things should be kept as simple as possible. I’m going to make chocolate fondant and crème brulée in the traditional ways, but I’m going to make the best chocolate fondant and crème brulée that I can.”
What do you think of vegetables like mushrooms making their way onto the dessert cart?
Photo of candy-cap mushroom ice cream sandwiches courtesy Huffington Post Taste
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