Don’t overlook the back of the box
June 13, 2020 by DarcieDespite the fact that most people look for recipes online these days, food manufacturers still provide those recipes on containers of everything from oatmeal to chocolate chips to sweetened condensed milk and beyond. With hundreds of cookbooks at my disposal, I rarely look at the recipes posted on packages of the products I purchase. However, Hannah Selinger at Eater makes some good points about these recipes, explaining that she uses them as sources of inspiration.
Probably the most famous “back of the box” recipe is for Nestle’s Toll House Cookies (technically, of course, this a is “back of the bag” recipe). Generations were raised on these chocolate chip masterpieces. The Toll House cookie recipe is but one fruit from a tree of recipes put forth by food companies that had in-house test kitchens constantly stirring up new ways to use their products. Some have stood the test of time while others have faded into oblivion.
Selinger also provides an interesting observation that by reading the backs of bags and boxes, “you can track the country’s culinary trends and passions.” She uses as an example General Mills’ Betty Crocker cakes from the WWII era and just after it ended. In order to save on rationed supplies like sugar, the recipe suggested alternative ingredients.
While some of us eschew “back of the box” recipes because we feel that they will be too pedestrian for our elevated palates, Selinger urges us to give the box a second look. “Cooking doesn’t need to be complicated to be valuable,” she reminds us. “There’s value in opening your pantry, reading the box, and doing what it says. In the process, pay homage to the home economists who built the empires of test kitchens, the ones who worked behind the scenes to create things we didn’t know were possible.”
Photo of Toll House chocolate chip cookies from The New York Times Cooking by Ruth Wakefield
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