What will happen to Mario Batali’s cookbook legacy?
July 5, 2018 by DarcieShortly after the news broke late last year that chef, restaurateur, and television host Mario Batali had been accused by multiple women of sexual harassment and assault, many of his business dealings began to fall apart. He was removed from the The Chew and he lost other television deals that were in the works. Three of his restaurants anounced that they were closing, and Eataly (which Batali co-owns with Joe Bastianich) removed his branded products from its shelves. But what about the many cookbooks he has written? Eater’s
According to booksellers, Batali’s books haven’t sold well for years. His most recent book, 2016’s Big American Cookbook, sold about 30,000 copies, barely making it onto the best-seller list for that year. That’s not bad, but it’s nothing compared to the roughly 400,000 copies Ina Garten sold in 2016.
Retail bookstore owners corroborate those statistics with their own anecdotes. Matt Sartwell, owner of Kitchen Arts & Letters, notes that sales of Batali’s books have been in decline for years. “To be honest, our business with Batali books had fallen off a long time ago,” he says. Celia Sack of Omnivore Books told Eater via email that Batali’s books “were never terribly popular because my customers rarely buy books by ‘celebrity chefs,’ but now, especially, I can’t wait to just have them off my shelves.”
Both retailers say they won’t remove the books from their stores, but they are not going to promote them. Other booksellers, such as Powell’s Books in Portland, Oregon, are doing the same. They have removed the books from displays or prominent locations, but feel that it would be censorship to pull the books entirely.
For many individuals, however, it’s a different story. Food writer Adam Roberts (aka The Amateur Gourmet) announced on Instagram that he was throwing out his Batali books. He told Eater that he “couldn’t stand to see Mario’s face on my bookshelf after reading about his behavior towards women.” Other people have banished their Batali books to the basement while they decide their ultimate fate.
I had one Batali book on my shelves, a copy that I had picked up for a song at a thrift store. The decision to donate the book to another secondhand store was, therefore, easy to make. I have many other – and better – Italian cookbooks, by Marcella Hazan and other great writers. There is no need for me to keep Batali’s book and it didn’t feel right allowing Batali to share shelf space with Hazan.
Batali’s most popular book in the EYB Library is the 2005 volume Molto Italiano, which resides on over 1300 Bookshelves, squeaking into the 100 most popular books on the site (#92). Subsequent cookbooks by Batali haven’t done nearly as well, with the latest, Big American Cookbook, found on only 184 Bookshelves. It doesn’t appear as though EYB Members are tossing Batali’s books in the trash bin, although people may give away the book and not remove it from their EYB Library. If you own some of Batali’s books, what are your plans for them?
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