In defense of recipes
December 10, 2022 by DarcieThere’s been a proliferation in recent years of a different type of cookbook, one that deemphasizes recipes in favor of a more relaxed style of cooking. It it isn’t exactly a recent trend – Pam Anderson wrote How to Cook Without a Book in 2000 and there are even older books in a similar vein – but it has gained steam in the past few years, with cooking shows also leaning into this style. Books like No Recipe? No Problem!: How to Pull Together Tasty Meals without a Recipe and The New York Times Cooking: No-Recipe Recipes promise to teach you how to be free from recipes in the kitchen. Eater’s Jaya Saxena thinks recipes still play an important role in cooking, however, and explains why we still need them.
Saxena says that being able to cook without a recipe is a kind of privilege because it means you either had someone who taught you how to cook or had the extra time and funds necessary to learn it yourself through trial and error. “Not everyone gets a parent who is at the stove every day, drilling techniques into your brain, and not everyone gets lazy afternoons where you try to make something, anything, with what you have around,” says Saxena, noting that “Recipes democratize this knowledge.”
As someone who learned to cook mainly on my own through cookbooks and magazines, I am glad I live in an age where there are books on almost any type of cuisine or dietary restraint imaginable. I grew up in a rural area in the upper Midwest where the most ‘ethnic’ food in the local grocery store was canned chicken chow mein, and without access to cookbooks I would never have had the courage to try foods I had only read about or seen on television. Now that I am a much more confident cook, I still consult recipes prior to trying something I haven’t mastered because they will give me needed insight on timings or ingredient ratios, and offer useful tips.
Even dishes that I think I have mastered can benefit from a return to recipes. Not too long ago I happened upon a recipe for a stew that I make frequently. I haven’t used a recipe for the stew in ages, but after reading this one I realized that over time I had incorporated several shortcuts that resulted in an inferior version compared to the one I originally made. Re-reading the recipe reminded me that few tweaks can make a big difference in the outcome of the dish, and also reinforced how important a good recipe can be.
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