Pardon me, do you have any Grey Poupon?

The 1980s was a decade of excess. Gravity-defying hairdos paired with neon-colored clothing, and television shows lured us in with dizzying displays of consumption: Ferraris on Miami Vice and Magnum PI, and mansions, jewels, and designer clothing on Dynasty and Dallas. It was a decade of one-upmanship – the fancier, the better. This was reflected in food, too. Commercials like the one for Grey Poupon Dijon mustard urged us to indulge in the finer things.

When I look back to that time, I find it hilarious that anyone believe Grey Poupon was fancy, but it sounded French, and that meant it was the height of sophistication. To a lesser extent, cornichons also rode that wave. The tiny French pickles graced charcuterie trays and adorned sandwiches, adding Gallic flair to food. Dijon mustard became commonplace in the US, and after reading Wilder Davies’ ode to the cornichon, I am convinced that it is time for cornichons to do likewise.

What sets cornichons apart from regular pickles (other than the size), is the more complex and unique flavor. Tarragon and mustard add dimension to the petite pucker-y pickles. Says Davies: “Tarragon, while not as versatile as some herbs, is powerfully aromatic, making whatever it’s added to seem like a fully realized food.” Throw in a few pearl onions and you get another layer of taste and texture. Their small size make them perfect for a snack, and they pair well with a variety of food, as the EYB Library shows.

Photo of Eggs cornichon from Fine Cooking Magazine