Singapore’s famous street food markets face an uncertain future

Since the 1950s, Singapore has had a vibrant street food scene that draws on the many cultures of its varied inhabitants. While early on the city had vendors dotted on the street corners, they eventually consolidated into over 100 hawker centers, where stalls offer enticing foods ranging from Cantonese barbecued pork to Javanese tempeh to kopi tarik (sweet and rich pulled coffee). However, as Atlas Obscura reports, this food paradise might be on the brink of extinction.

Street food was born of necessity in the rebuilding years following, World War II, providing jobs in a city where employment was scarce. By the end of the 1960s, there were over 24,000 hawkers in a city of just under two million people. The food was inexpensive, plentiful, and delicious. It was a true melting pot of flavors and textures, drawing the foods of its Chinese, Malaysian, and Indian residents. 

This incredible food scene is facing some major obstacles, however, One is the rise of air-conditioned mall food courts, where the offerings are not as rich and varied but you can enjoy them in comfort. The bigger problem, however, is that experienced hawkers are retiring without training the succeeding generation. People aren’t picking up the trade, and several items are already in danger of dying out. As the EYB Member who alerted us to this story noted, the situation seems to present a tremendous opportunity for a cookbook. 

Photo of Curry laksa (Malacca nyonya laksa) from Serious Eats