On the Side by Ed Smith

Do not let the unassuming cover fool you, On the Side: A Sourcebook of Inspiring Side Dishes is a stunningly photographed cookbook packed with tempting recipes that we all want to cook and eat. This title also made the top ten best of the best cookbooks of 2017 from information gathered from UK sources and I now know why!

Smith left his career as a lawyer to train as a chef in 2012. There seems to be a great deal of that type of thing happening (business professionals turning toward food careers). Presently, he is a food writer and Creative Director of British cured meat wholesalers and retailers, Cannon & Cannon, based in London’s Borough Market. Smith also authors the food blog Rocket & Squash.

In On the Side, the humble side dish is brought front and center, where it should be. How many of us would be happy with just turkey or ham on the table during the holidays with no bowls of steaming potatoes or roasted vegetables? Not me. I want Sweet potato, celeriac and porcini bake, Curry leaf, cashew and coconut rice, or Spiced roast carrots on my plate.

140 plus recipes are spread out over four chapters: Greens, leaves and herbs;  Vegetables, fruit, flowers and bulbs; Roots, squash and potatoes; and Grains, pulses, pasta and rice. A recipe directory entitled What’s your main dish? takes the guess work out of which side would best complement your main dish. Where is the side dish prepared is another directory that specifies: counter, hob, oven, or hob and in the oven. Big family meal and the oven is full? Check out that directory for a side that can be made on the counter (no cooking) or on the hob (stove top). Lastly, How long does it take to make?  indexes the recipes by time committment from less than 15 minutes through more than an hour. 

This is a book I will turn to time and again. I just received the title on Saturday and knew I wanted to make something straight away. The Roman rosemary polenta was my choice to serve my Steak pizziaola and what a perfect choice it was. I used an additional 1/4 cup of milk and two tablespoons of butter (warmed together) to loosen the polenta before serving. The essence of rosemary was subtle and truly magical in the polenta. My husband and son were crazy about the dish but I cannot use the words Andrew used to describe it (if you follow me on Instagram you may have seen his declaration). It was rated NSFEYB (Not suitable for Eat Your Books). 

Special thanks to the publisher, Bloomsbury, for providing the original version of this fantastic recipe to share with our readers. Next time I will follow through and make the polenta cakes, if I can stop myself from eating the polenta right out of the pot.

 

Roman rosemary polenta
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These rosemary-infused squares of set-then-baked polenta are, to me, more satisfying than polenta ‘chips’, which never live up to their name. I’d serve them with almost any tomato sauce-based dish, but also next to chargrilled lamb chops, chicken thighs in a cheesy sauce or as part of a meat-free medley. There’s a bit of work involved, but the first two steps can be done in advance of eating. Also: it’s worth it.

The instructions below are to suit polenta that hasn’t been pre-cooked. If you have the instant or quick-cook type, follow the instructions on the packet, replacing the water with milk, then pick up the method when the cheese and butter are added.

INGREDIENTS

  • 800 ml milk
  • 3 sprigs rosemary
  • 150g polenta
  • light olive oil, for greasing
  • 70g butter, cubed
  • 80g parmesan, grated
  • sea salt

Method

Put the milk and 2 of the rosemary sprigs in a large saucepan, bring to a rapid simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 25 minutes, then discard the rosemary.

Sprinkle the polenta into the pan in a slow, steady stream, stirring continuously. At first it will seem as though there’s far too much milk, but after 3-5 minutes the polenta will swell and thicken. Continue to stir vigorously, almost without interruption, for 10-15 minutes over a low heat. Once the grains are less visible and the polenta starts to become smooth, reduce the heat to very low and cook for 10 minutes more, beating it frequently. Add some extra water to loosen the mixture if necessary.

Meanwhile, line an approximately 20 x 20cm baking tray with baking parchment and grease the paper with 1 tablespoon oil. When the polenta is cooked, smooth and slick, add 40g of the butter and 60g of the Parmesan and beat well, season with salt, then pour it into the lined tray. Use a palette knife or the back of a spoon to push and smooth the polenta into the corners to an even depth of around 3cm. Leave to cool, then put in the fridge to set for at least 30 minutes or overnight.

Once the polenta has cooled and set, turn it out onto a clean work surface and cut into 5cm squares. Place these smooth-side up on a larger lightly oiled baking tray (or two), leaving a little space around them. Preheat the oven to 250°C.

Strip the leaves from the remaining rosemary and chop them very finely. Melt the remaining butter and pour or brush this over the polenta squares. Sprinkle the rosemary over the top, then finish with the remaining Parmesan. Bake for 15 minutes, or until golden. Allow to cool and firm up for 5 minutes before serving.

Roman rosemary polenta recipe excerpted from On the Side by Ed Smith, Bloomsbury Publishing 2017© and used with permission. Photos here by Jenny Hartin. 

The publisher is offering two copies of this book to EYB Members in the US and UK. One of the entry options is to answer the following question in the comments section of this blog post.

Which recipe in the index would you try first?

Please note that you must be logged into the Rafflecopter contest before posting or your entry won’t be counted. For more information on this process, please see our step-by-step help post. Be sure to check your spam filters to receive our email notifications. Prizes can take up to 6 weeks to arrive from the publishers. If you are not already a Member, you can join at no cost. The contest ends at midnight on March 22nd, 2018.

____________________________________________________________________________________ 

Steak pizzaiola 
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To the left is the polenta with my version of Steak pizziaola. A few of you asked for my recipe and I’m sharing it here for you.

3 lb. beef chuck roast 
2 gloves of garlic, minced
1 small onion, minced
2 large cans (28 oz each) of crushed tomatoes
1 teaspoon of Italian seasoning mix 

1 teaspoon of salt *or more to taste
1 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
Depending on the acidity of the tomatoes – 1/2 tsp of sugar
2 tablespoons of olive oil 
2 tablespoons of butter
Salt and pepper to season the meat before searing 

Preheat the oven to 325F

Fifteen minutes before searing the meat, take the roast out and pat both sides with a paper towel to remove any moisture (so that you get a nice sear)

In a large shallow dutch oven add the olive oil and two tablespoons of butter and turn the temperature to medium high. Salt and pepper both sides of the meat generously. When the butter is melted and the oil is hot, sear the meat. Five minutes on each side. Don’t peek – I set the timer and walk away because I have been found guilty of peeking. 

Once seared, scoot the meat over a bit. Add a little more olive oil, if needed, and toss in the garlic, onions and Italian seasoning and cook for a minute or two.  Add the two cans of crushed tomatoes, salt, pepper, sugar and stir. Let come to a simmer and watch out for that bubbling sauce so you don’t get splattered.

Cover the pot and place in the oven to cook for anywhere from 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours. This always changes for me – after 2 hours I check the meat with a fork for tenderness and to see if the pot needs more liquid. Yesterday the roast took the full 3 1/2 hours to become fall apart tender and I needed to add 1/2 cup of water (or 1/2 cup of beef broth if you have it) to loosen as it thickened as it cooked down. Serve over pasta or over this delicious polenta. 

 

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99 Comments

  • Siegal  on  February 13, 2018

    I want to try deep fried Brussels

  • Execchef1225  on  February 13, 2018

    Asian greens

  • Sueskitchen  on  February 13, 2018

    The polenta and ragu for sure

  • AnnaZed  on  February 13, 2018

    Chard with chilli, shallot and cider vinaigrette

  • heyjude  on  February 14, 2018

    French-ish Peas

  • sarahawker  on  February 14, 2018

    Gochujang mayo and coconut corn on the cob

  • annmartina  on  February 14, 2018

    Bacon and buttermilk cabbage

  • lpatterson412  on  February 14, 2018

    Coconut Jasmine Rice!!!

  • lean1  on  February 14, 2018

    Radicchio with a smoky blood orange and maple dressing sounds great!

  • ktwalla  on  February 14, 2018

    Chorizo Roast Potatoes

  • lebarron2001  on  February 14, 2018

    Sweet potato and rosemary hash-rösti

  • janv  on  February 14, 2018

    Chickpeas with garlic oil and spinach (

  • cookn  on  February 14, 2018

    Charred Fermented Cabbage

  • Mariarosa  on  February 14, 2018

    Roast cauliflower with chickpeas and lemon tahini!

  • EmilyR  on  February 14, 2018

    Courgettes with soy, sesame, mint and chilli

  • lapsapchung  on  February 15, 2018

    Chorizo roast potatoes – I'm salivating at the thought

  • ravensfan  on  February 15, 2018

    Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts

  • Marcia1206  on  February 15, 2018

    That steak pizzaiola looks so good! I don’t need to look further!

  • Scotsman61  on  February 16, 2018

    Chorizo Roast Potatoes

  • jmay42066  on  February 17, 2018

    Bacon and buttermilk cabbage

  • rchesser  on  February 17, 2018

    Roast cauliflower with chickpeas and lemon tahini

  • JenJoLa  on  February 17, 2018

    French-ish peas

  • kmn4  on  February 17, 2018

    Rosemary and chestnut sprouts

  • Livia  on  February 18, 2018

    The Baby pak choi with sticky garlic and ginger sounds like a treat

  • Livia  on  February 18, 2018

    The Baby pak choi with sticky garlic and ginger sound like a treat

  • FireRunner2379  on  February 18, 2018

    I'd like to try the recipe for Deep-fried Brussels sprouts!

  • Foodycat  on  February 19, 2018

    I want to eat all of it, but I'm going to make the sweet potato, celeriac and porcini bake this weekend.

  • sgump  on  February 19, 2018

    Quick-pickled diakon sounds neat–I like the addition of mint in the marinade.

  • lgroom  on  February 19, 2018

    Have to try the deep fried Brussels sprouts.

  • Dannausc  on  February 19, 2018

    Cabbage with juniper butter

  • hibeez  on  February 20, 2018

    I love that there is a main dish directory! for recipe, I'd go with Chorizo Roast Potatoes.

  • anniette  on  February 22, 2018

    Anchoiade Mashed Potatoes with Bacon and Buttermilk Cabbage, please!

  • ebs  on  February 23, 2018

    So many delicious sounding recipes ! Rosemary and chili roast squash is one of many I would try

  • mpdeb98  on  February 24, 2018

    Sweet potato and rosemary hash-rösti

  • clairew137  on  February 25, 2018

    Rosemary and chili roast squash

  • LaurenE  on  February 25, 2018

    gochujang mayo and coconut corn on the cob

  • PennyG  on  February 25, 2018

    Sounds interesting … Deep-fried Brussels sprouts!

  • rachael_mc  on  February 25, 2018

    creamed chard gratin

  • HermionieG  on  February 25, 2018

    Smoky ratatouille

  • southerncooker  on  February 25, 2018

    Oh after looking at some of the index I need this book. Bacon and Buttermilk cabbage caught my eye imitatively as did the chard recipes.

  • clappc  on  February 28, 2018

    Roman Rosemary Polenta, honestly. Something about polenta just always calls my name!

  • lynneskip  on  February 28, 2018

    Charred Fermented Cabbage

  • fbrunetti  on  February 28, 2018

    Shaved fennel with tarragon

  • Sfgordon  on  February 28, 2018

    It all sounds amazing but I would start with okra chips with cumin salt!

  • Cryambers  on  March 1, 2018

    Roast cauliflower with chickpeas and lemon tahini

  • ket06e  on  March 1, 2018

    Deep fried brussels sprouts sound interesting!

  • choppergirl  on  March 2, 2018

    Spiced roast carrots

  • sunset34  on  March 2, 2018

    Purple spruting brocoli with tarragon – thanks

  • t.t  on  March 3, 2018

    Eseeola Lodge spaghetti squash Parmesan

  • maestra  on  March 3, 2018

    Yeasted cauliflower puree sounds amazing! That would be the first of many recipes to try.

  • RSW  on  March 4, 2018

    Kale, Romanesco, Parmesan and pine nut salad

  • Laura1  on  March 4, 2018

    Roast cauliflower with chickpeas and lemon tahini

  • Shelley.b  on  March 4, 2018

    Spiced roasted carrots

  • shellee  on  March 5, 2018

    Charred Romanesco -olive oil and lemon dressing

  • PollySBA  on  March 7, 2018

    Deep fried brussel sprouts you say . . . okay

  • Jenamarie  on  March 8, 2018

    Maple and pecan roast squash

  • cake17uk  on  March 9, 2018

    Mine would be Creamed sweetcorn with feta – sounds so good!

  • lauriesk  on  March 9, 2018

    I would try the spiced, roast carrots.

  • lilham  on  March 9, 2018

    Quick cucumber and daikon kimchi

  • Nancith  on  March 9, 2018

    Sweet cauliflower greens–I've always hated throwing away the cauliflower leaves.

  • DesiKim  on  March 9, 2018

    Wilted spinach with coconut, ginger and pink peppercorns sounds very interesting

  • sweetmarah  on  March 9, 2018

    Rosemary Polenta

  • Incohatus  on  March 9, 2018

    Braised cabbage & kale

  • Coffeebean  on  March 9, 2018

    Coconut Jasmine rice

  • sequoia55  on  March 9, 2018

    Charred Fermented Cabbage

  • Agaillard  on  March 10, 2018

    Such a hard choice! I think pink radicchio with pear and almonds sounds really good – I dislike kale, cannot digest a lot of vegetables (like cabbage which I love so still eats sometimes), so at least those were out: But man chosing between all the rest was hard! Maple and pecan roast squash, yeasted cauliflower puree, roasted romanesco …

  • dewdneyk  on  March 10, 2018

    Spring greens in shiitake dashi – got the spring greens today so going to make it for dinner

  • PeavineBlues  on  March 10, 2018

    Garlic oil pea shoots

  • BrandonGM  on  March 10, 2018

    Rosemary and chilli roast squash

  • MarshaG  on  March 10, 2018

    Rosemary polenta!

  • Poppyjoey  on  March 10, 2018

    Chorizo Roast Potatoes

  • tararr  on  March 10, 2018

    Deep Fried brussels. But I am making the Rosemary Polenta this week now (thanks for the recipe above!)

  • Joy001  on  March 10, 2018

    Roast cauliflower with chickpeas and lemon tahini sounds delish!

  • Dmartin997  on  March 10, 2018

    Cauliflower cheese.. I love cauliflower.

  • Julia  on  March 10, 2018

    Bacon and buttermilk cabbage.

  • TanyaD  on  March 10, 2018

    Spring greens in shiitake dashi

  • RickPearson54  on  March 11, 2018

    Creamed chard gratin

  • hc_bailey  on  March 11, 2018

    Aubergine puree

  • cellenly  on  March 13, 2018

    gochujang mayo and coconut corn on the cob

  • Ishtar  on  March 14, 2018

    Beetroot gratin

  • HomespunHouse  on  March 16, 2018

    Roman rosemary polenta

  • mkcorban  on  March 21, 2018

    Butter beans with sage

  • Teruska  on  March 21, 2018

    Hasselback potatoes with bay and caraway and the creamed kale and, and, and…

  • Karla123  on  March 21, 2018

    Spelt grains with wild mushrooms would please my palate!

  • MusicCityMissy  on  March 21, 2018

    WOW I don't think I have ever seen so many side dishes that I wanted to try but the first one that just jumped out at me was the okra chips with cumin salt.

  • orchidlady01  on  March 22, 2018

    Roman rosemary polenta

  • Livia  on  October 11, 2019

    Hasselback potatoes with bay and caraway sound amazing @@

  • AJL123  on  December 29, 2019

    Chorizo roast potatoes

  • Judyfos  on  March 2, 2020

    Chorizo Roast Potatoes

  • Dendav  on  March 6, 2020

    Deep fried Brussel sprouts

  • reader1trees  on  September 29, 2021

    Yeasted cauliflower puree

  • onlyconfect  on  November 12, 2021

    French-ish peas. Love the Rocket and Squash blog

  • whiskywill  on  February 24, 2022

    Cavolo nero with garlic, chilli and orange looks good.

  • nuj  on  May 13, 2022

    Would love (I think!) courgettes with soy, sesame, mint and chilli – though might omit the chilli!

  • maria411  on  October 17, 2022

    Charred Fermented Cabbage

  • MoontrifleMe  on  January 31, 2023

    I’d love to try the black bean, coriander and lime rice. I’m always looking for new ways to add flavour to my rice

  • Heaton99  on  May 27, 2023

    Grilled tenderstem broccoli with umami crumbs

  • MrsCJSquirrel  on  November 5, 2023

    Grilled Hispy cabbage as it’s something I have yet to try and it gets rave reviews

  • maria411  on  January 7, 2024

    I would love to try making Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts

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