A celebration of the Persian New Year – Nowruz with a Giveaway
March 19, 2017 by Jenny
Just shy of a month ago, I began researching
Kolompeh, an Iranian pastry that has the appearance of a mini
pie with a tantalizing mixture of minced dates, cardamom
powder and spices. Kolompeh are works of art and I was taken by
their detail and beauty. My research led me to the Zozo
Baking site where I was lost in the admiration of the
stunning photographs and spirit of a beautiful baker, Fariba
Nafissi. The discovery of Fariba’s site marked my gateway to a new
addiction – the gorgeous molds used to make Kolompeh and the pastry
itself.
My love affair of Middle Eastern cooking, baking and culture began
decades ago. I’ve fed this passion of mine through cookbooks,
tools, blogs and sharing what information I learn with others. One
of my favorite posts involved Middle Eastern
cookbooks and, of course, many singular cookbook reviews
such as Taste of Persia, The Middle Eastern Vegetarian Cookbook and
others.
March 21st is Nowruz (or Persian New Year) which translates to a
“new day”. Personally, I approach each day as a new beginning – a
chance to get things right – a chance to make a difference in
someone’s life. To celebrate Nowruz, Fariba agreed to an interview
as well as sharing one of her recipes. To gild the lily, I have a
quick review of Sweet Middle East and Man’oushé (two favorite cookbooks of mine that
deal with sweet treats and baking) and a giveaway of those two
titles along with a spice blend (Advieh) and a beautiful cookie
mold from Fariba – everything you need to start a wonderful journey
to the Middle East in your own kitchen.
We will begin with two titles that focus on Middle Eastern baking. While working on this article, I discovered this book Sweets & Desserts from the Middle East which I ordered. I will update this post once I receive it.
First up, Sweet Middle East: Classic Recipes, from Baklava to
Fig Ice Cream by Anissa Helou was one of the first cookbooks I
came across back in 2015 that focused solely on the sweet aspect of
Middle Eastern cuisine. Anissa, a cooking instructor and culinary
researcher, delivers almost 70 recipes in this vibrant book that
any lover of sweets, baking or cuisine from this area of the world
would love. The Turkish Pistachio Shortbread (recipe
online) and Pistachio-Filled Semolina Pastries were made when I
first received the book (we have a thing for pistachios) and they
were delicious and easy to create. Pulling the book for this review
reminded me of all the other recipes I want to try. I just need
another ten hours each day to be able to do that.
Man’oushé: Inside the Street
Corner Lebanese Bakery by Barbara Abdeni Massaad,
internationally-acclaimed author of the humanitarian cookbook, Soup for Syria, contains a mouth-watering
assortment of Lebanese flatbreads. Seventy recipes are shared in
this beautiful book that will have you experimenting with options
to enjoy man’oushé which is typically baked in street corner
bakeries. Zucchini Turnovers, Feta Cheese Pie and Wild Thyme Pie
with Whole-Wheat Flour and Bulgar Dough are samples of the variety
in this title. The only title of Barbara Abdeni Massaad that I do
not have is Mouneh (Preserving Foods for the Lebanese Pantry,
Volume 1) and I continue to search far and wide to make it
mine. I have corresponded with Barbara who informed me that she is
working on a second edition of this title.
When I first found Farbia’s site, Zozo Baking, my immediate thought was this woman needs to write a cookbook and I hope to help her in that regard. Her work is brilliant, her generous spirit is contagious and her passion for baking is palpable. Fariba was kind enough with her time and talent, especially during this busy baking time for her business, to answer some questions about herself and Persian baking. She is also offering one of her stunning Komopeh cookie molds and the advieh spice mixture in our giveaway so that one of you lucky members can makes these works of art in your own home. Our giveaway also includes a copy of Sweet Middle East (courtesy of Chronicle Books) and a copy of Man’oushé: Inside the Street Corner Lebanese Bakery (courtesy of Interlink Books which had sent me the new paperback version and I realize that I have the hardcover edition already in my collection. These things happen when you are a cookbook junkie)
Q: Fariba, tell us a little bit about your life
before culinary became a big part of it – where were you born,
where did you grow up – was culinary always your chosen
profession?
I was born in Kerman, the capital city of Kerman providence, in Iran. I lived in many cities in Iran before moving to the USA at age 22. Culinary has always been my passion, but not my profession until recent years. My desire for baking Persian pastries started at early age in my grandmother’s kitchen, where my mom and her friends were making honey saffron brittles. Mom who is an excellent self-taught cook and a baker, has been my true inspiration.
I moved to the USA in 1993, I studied psychology at Cal State Long Beach and had a part time job at IKEA. That part time job then became full time and before I knew it, I was climbing the corporate ladder. Through out the years that I was at IKEA, I always baked, baking was therapeutic, was nostalgic, and was the one thing that kept me connected to my roots.
The decision to quit my job of almost 20 years wasn’t an easy one, and to be honest with you, I’m not sure where the shift happened, but for the last year that I was at IKEA, I knew I can’t continue living the corporate life. In July of 2013, I gave my two weeks notice and at the same time I registered for San Francisco Baking Institute. As they say the rest is history.
Q: Your website is beautiful and the items you sell
in your shop are so special. The cookie molds – can you share more
about where they are made – who makes them? Tips for taking care of
them.
Kolompeh stamps and the kolompeh recipe have evolved through out the years. Nowadays there are so many variations of stamps in Kerman. Some have basic simple design, are made from pine wood, and more affordable; for example the maybod stamp. The most popular stamps have beautiful hand carving work with floral patterns and designs. These stamps are made with durable solid walnut wood and then treated with olive oil.
Q: Which do you prefer baking or cooking more – or do you have an equal passion for both like I do?
Oh definitely baking, however when I develop my recipes, I get my inspirations from Persian food/Iranian food. For example, we have a rice dish called jeweled rice that is absolutely a feast for the eye and the palate. The rice is made with lots of saffron, almonds, pistachios, and orange peels. I use the same concept and made my famous jeweled saffron cake.
Q: Who are your culinary idols? Tell us about your favorite cookbooks.
Besides my mom 😉 there are so many chefs that I admire but to name a few, Ariana Bundy has done an amazing job introducing the west to Iranian food and culture. I am fascinated by recipe / travel books that teach people about the diversity of cultures through the foods my recent favorite is Taste of Persia by Naomi Duguid.
Q:
Can you tell the history of Kolompeh and any tips for
beginners?
Kolompeh (first photo above) is the traditional pastry of Kerman, a city located in the Southeast of Iran near one of the largest Iranian dessert: Dasht-e Lut. Even though Kerman’s climate is dry, oases of dates, pistachios, and orange tree can be found. With the abundance of fresh fruits, people of this region have been using fresh fruits in pastries for years and Kolompeh is no exception. Kolompeh is flaky, tender, and naturally sweeten with dates. Kolompeh is as delicious as it is pretty. Kolompeh is made from a simple dough very similar to baghlava dough, then is filled with date paste, stamp with different cookie press designs, and crimped. Date paste is fragrant with Advieh and provides moisture, flavor, and softness to the dough. Advieh is a blend of Persian spices such as cinnamon, cloves, rose petals, and cumin.
Q: Tell us about the Persian/Iranian New Year and food and cultural traditions?
Iranian New Year is called Nowruz, which literally means new day. Nowruz has been celebrated for more than 3000 years on the day of vernal equinox and since it’s neither a political nor a religious ceremony, it brings all Iranians together. The preparation for Nowruz starts a month in advanced with annual spring cleaning of our homes, lots of baking, and cooking. There are symbolic dishes that we must have during Nowruz like herbed rice/Sabzi-polo with white fish, Persian herbed frittata/ koku sabzi, and herbed noodle soup/Ash-reshte . All the herbed foods represent our appreciation for the mother earth and to start the year with healthy food choices.
Nowruz is also a time to bake, baking Iranian pastries takes time and patient, but the result is so rewarding. One of the famous pastries during Nowruz is chickpea cookies or as we say in Farsi Nane-Nokhodchi, gluten free cookies that melt in your mouth with sweet aroma of cardamom. I am pleased to share a recipe for these cookies below.
CHICKPEA COOKIES
Yield: 140 pieces
Bake time: 9-12 minutes
Ingredients:
3 cups chickpea flour
1 1/2 cups vegetable shortening
1 & 1/2 cups confectioner sugar
1 teaspoon finely ground cardamom
1/4 cup slivered pistachios
Process:
1. Using a food processor, cream together the vegetable
shortening and powdered sugar
2. Add chickpea flour and cardamom and mix together until you have
a soft dough, keep the dough in a plastic bag and let it rest for
24 hours
3. Preheat your oven to 325 F (165-170 C)
4. Cover baking trays with parchment paper
5. Spread the dough with rolling pin to an inch or half an inch
thickness
6. Use a cookie cutter to shape the dough and place the cookies on
the baking tray (Optional: Use Pistachio to decorate the
cookies)
7. Place the tray on the medium rack of your oven and bake for
10-15 minutes (depending on your oven, if your oven is hot in
general, don’t bake them more than 10 minutes). Because the cookies
are so soft, you won’t be able to check their doneness.
8. Once out of the oven, it’s very important to let cool
completely before storing them.
9. Keep them in an airtight container for up to a month in the
refrigerator or up to two months in the freezer.
Our Persian baking package is open to Eat Your Books members in
the US. One of the entry options is to answer the following
question in the comments section of this blog post: Have you
cooked or baked any Persian dishes? Please tell us about
them. Please note that you must be logged into the
Rafflecopter contest at the end of this post before posting or your
entry won’t be counted. If you are not already a Member, you can join at no cost. The
contest ends at midnight on April 23,
2017.
Special thanks to Fariba for sharing her time and her photographs (first photograph featured of the pastry credit to Mahroo @noghleme) with us as well as generously offering a mold and spice mix in our giveaway and to Chronicle Books and Interlink Publishing for copies of two beautiful books for our contest. I recommend signing up for Fariba’s posts (near the bottom of her web page) and following her on Instagram you will be happy that you have this woman’s talent in your life.
Some other recipes to help you celebrate Middle Eastern cuisine can be found at the New York Times, Saveur, AZ Cookbook, My Persian Kitchen, Fig & Quince, Turmeric & Saffron and countless others food blogs.
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