Ruby Tandoh takes on the clean eating phenomenon
January 23, 2017 by DarcieIt seems
that every food website you see has a feature or two on ‘clean
eating’. Bloggers who promote the tenets of the movement (few or no
carbs- especially sugar, few processed foods, and a focus on
vegetables) have become nearly overnight sensations. GBBO
contestant and bestselling cookbook author Ruby
Tandoh recently contributed an opinion piece to The
Guardian in which she discusses the problems she sees with the ‘clean eating’
phenomenon. In the article, Tandoh calls out several
popular bloggers-turned-authors who were in the forefront of the
movement but who have recently distanced themselves from the label
of ‘clean eating’.
She notes that although bloggers like Jasmine and Melissa Hemsley, Amelia Freer, and Ella Woodward scrupulously avoided “the restrictive and judgement-laden overtones of the dreaded D-word” (diet), the “lifestyle” they advocated promoted pseudo-scientific health claims that had little or no backing from researchers. Now that the proclamations of physicians and others who these bloggers had once touted have come under intense scrutiny, the bloggers are quick to claim that they never promoted themselves as part of the ‘clean eating’ movement.
Tandoh believes that the recent distancing from the ‘clean
eating’ label is a rebranding effort to put “a bright new face on
the diet industry. When a fad wears thin, you give it a new name.”
She also calls to task the cookbook publishing industry, who
she feels are too eager to offer a book deal to a successful
blogger regardless of how dubious her health claims may
be. What do you think of the phenomenon? Is it a fad diet in a
new package, or merely a rejection of overly-processed
food?
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