Food news antipasto

The viral Korean sweet potato hack that’s been circulating in social media promises that a good old-fashioned “one weird trick” will recreate the custard-like texture of goguma, whole roasted sweet potatoes sold at Korean convenience stores. The key, according to the videos, is to dunk the sweet potato into an ice bath halfway through baking. Food and Wine’s Merlyn Miller decided to put this method to the test with a side-by-side comparison. The result? It made the sweet potato easier to peel and changed the texture a tiny amount. The real trick, says a food scientist, is using the right kind of sweet potato – one with purple flesh and white flesh, rather than the orange kind more frequently found here in the US.

We have a couple of updates to our story about the allegations of abuse at Noma. First, Adam Roberts (aka Amateur Gourmet) wrote about his experience at Noma in 2023. He left midway through the meal, saying “I’ll never forget the sense of liberation I felt getting into that car, rolling down the window, and breathing in the cool night air. It didn’t feel like I was leaving a restaurant. It felt like I was leaving a cult.”

The second update has it that Rene Redzepi has stepped away from Noma and the related non-profit board. Via an Instagram post, the chef said “I’ve decided to step away and allow our extraordinary leaders to now guide the restaurant into its next chapter.” And one last note: Noma lost at least two key sponsors of Noma’s Los Angeles residency. American Express and Blackbird, a hospitality start-up, both released statements on Monday that they were withdrawing their sponsorship. Both companies said they would refund customers for any tickets already purchased and donate remaining proceeds to organizations that support restaurant workers.

Interested in a food writing workshop? IACP is offering a new series open to everyone but with special pricing for IACP members. The first workshop is March 27 from 11 to 2 CDT with J.M. Hirsch, former national food editor at the Associated Press and editorial director of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street. He will be talking about how to find, report, and tell compelling food stories. Tickets start at $107.88 USD.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, the two-Michelin-starred restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in London, is set to close next January. The restaurant opened in 2011 with chef Ashley Palmer-Watts at the helm, serving contemporary British food based on historical cookbooks dating back to the 14th century.

When one door closes, another one opens. Former Top Chef contestant and talk show host Carla Hall recently announced a new restaurant in the Capitol Hill area of Washington, DC. The eatery, named Bumblebirds, features fried chicken and a cocktail bar “pop-in”, and opens March 20. An Instagram post noted that “The menu is simple, but delicious, with crispy fried chicken and grilled chicken sandwiches, tenders, and nuggets. Sides include Southern biscuits, a pimento cheese board, and kettle chips fried onsite.”

Chocolate ice cream lovers, this one’s for you. Pastry chef Talia Profet explains the impact of cocoa powder when used in ice cream in a short but informative article. Beyond adding depth of flavor and color, cocoa powder influences the texture, structure, and mouthfeel of ice cream. The amount of cocoa fat alters how cold the ice cream feels and contributes to the texture. The article also explains how Dutch and natural cocoa differ when used in ice cream and sorbet.

If someone says they are making a butter run, you probably think they are going to the store to buy butter. However, one couple took this concept literally, ‘churning’ butter on a six-mile run. Libby Cope and Jacob Arnold thought it would be a fun experiment, so they poured heavy cream and a pinch of salt into a zippered plastic bag and stuffed it in their backpack. The first try was a limited success, so they made a few changes and did it again, this time making a respectable-looking butter.

Other articles you may have missed:

• It’s pi day, make a pie
• Vintage kitchenware as decor – love it or leave it?
• How much salt you should add to your pasta water, according to science
• The dark side of perfection