The truth comes out of the oven
May 4, 2018 by Darcie
I love to bake,
but I consider myself a dilletante when it comes to this hobby of
mine. I flit about from cakes to pies to laminated doughs and
various types of breads, never spending too much time on any one of
them. Since I have a 9-to-5 office job, I haven’t dedicated myself
to the craft, although I greatly admire the professionals who
commit to baking with passion and intensity. That’s why I was
enthralled by Saveur Magazine’s discussion with Jeffrey
Hamelman, one of the few certified Master Bakers in the
US.
Hamelman has been baking for over forty years, and has taught thousands of home bakers through his work with King Arthur Flour in Vermont. He loves all types of bread, from artisan rustic loaves to flatbreads to egg breads to rolls and beyond, and says that “If a bread is made with respect for fermentation and ingredients, if it’s made with care and authenticity, then I think it has a place in our collective bread basket.”
This egalitarian attitude comes about partly because Hamelman believes the bread culture in the U.S. did not develop in the same way as it did in other countries. Here, we borrow bits of this and that, choosing pieces that suit our needs, tastes, and desires. While this means we don’t have a uniquely defining bread, it also allows us to experiment in ways that would seem blasphemous elsewhere. Hamelman refers to a saying by French baker Professeur Raymond Calvel: “La vérité sort du four,” meaning “The truth comes out of the oven. If the breads are better-please keep it up.”
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